On Barbecued Ribs and Fallacious Independence

In Memphis, the spice rub used to flavor our ribs varies from restaurant to restaurant, family to family, but often includes amounts of salt, black pepper, paprika, onion powder, garlic powder, cayenne, brown sugar, white sugar, rosemary, ginger, celery salt, mustard, oregano, cumin. We must keep our grills cool enough not to burn these spices, especially the sugar. We will turn on our televisions as the smoke curls into the air, draws lassoes or nooses over so many backyards. On […]

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Maritime Food and Literary Inventiveness: Matthew Gavin Frank at Book/Plate

The email from Jeff Waxman had said that there would be one more Book/Plate event this year, and I had to read it twice: “a literary supper series at Peck’s Specialty Foods in Clinton Hill.” The rest of Jeff’s missive was charmingly dictated in the style of Moby-Dick, and then I finally came to the name: “Matthew Gavin Frank, author of Preparing the Ghost.” A dinner with squid, starring the author of a book about giant squids—what else would I […]

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